2022
Domaine Chambeyron-Manin Côte-Rôtie Côte
Brune
(France, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie)
$115
At the
southern end of Ampuis, Christianne Manin and
her family own and operate Les Jardins de la
Côte-Rôtie, a small market offering locally
produced meats, cheeses, and produce. As
traditional maraîchers, or grower producers,
they grow and sell a variety of their
vegetables which include radishes, spinach,
chard and a variety of lettuces.
Luckily for us, they also cultivate,
sustainable / organically, a tiny parcel
of vines in Côte-Rôtie. The 0.5 hectare parcel
of vines is located directly above their home
and cellar. Dedicated exclusively to the rare
Serine clone of Syrah, these 50+ year old
vines grow on iron rich schist laden soils of
the Côte Brune. With less than 165 cases
produced annually, Chambeyron-Manin is
small-production on a wildly different scale.
As for the
wine: dark plum, black pepper, and a touch of
wildflowers interplay with subtle notes of
mineral and smoke, black olive, violets and
lavender.
This is one of the most sensual Syrahs you'll
ever taste.
Rare Grape
Ahead
|
|
2024
Domaine Philippe Tessier Cour-Cheverny Les
Sables
(France, Loire Valley, Touraine,
Cour-Cheverny)
$38.50
Domaine
Philippe Tessier, based in Cheverny, is a
leading voice in the Loire Valley’s natural
wine scene. Since taking over from his father
in the 1980s, Philippe Tessier has pursued a
vision rooted in respect for nature, terroir
expression, and minimal intervention. The
estate is certified organic and follows
biodynamic principles.
Tessier’s wines are known for their precision,
vitality, and deep connection to place,
particularly through native Loire grapes like
Romorantin and Menu Pineau. He’s a staunch
advocate of traditional techniques: indigenous
yeast fermentation, low sulfur, and no fining
or filtration when possible. His Cour-Cheverny
bottlings are especially celebrated for
capturing the essence of one of France’s most
obscure yet historic varietals, Romorantin,
which is found no where else.
This
100% Romorantin yields a complex white wine
with high, electric acidity and a deep
mineral core.There's prominent notes of green
apple, quince, beeswax, and citrus zest,
accompanied by a saline, mouth-watering
finish.
This
rare and unique wine is a serious gastronomic
sensation.
If
you're going to Little Mountain in Montecito
(did you read their stunning
review in NYT?), order the mt. lassen
trout and bring this wine.
An equally
great pairing would be roast chicken,
chicken/mushroom risotto, grilled shrimp
with a garlic/lemon sauce, and if you're
thinking cheese, see if our
local cheese shop has any Loire
goat cheeses.
|
|
2023
Cantina Sociale Cooperativa di Gattinara Vino Rosso
(Italy, Piedmont, Northern Piedmont, Gattinara)
$28
The Cantina
Sociale di Gattinara has been a critical lifeline to small grape
growers since 1908, offering families from the zone of Gattinara
a steady path of continued independence and stewardship of the
land. Forty families care for their own tiny plots, which total
15 hectares of vines rooted in the zone’s pure volcanic soils.
Descending
into the cantina’s historic cellar with its cement tanks and
botti tucked beneath the centuries-old city center of Gattinara
is like traveling back in time. Today, the cantina produces
approximately 2,000 cases of wine annually. The resulting wines
display a simple elegance and purity as well as a palpable
connection to over 100 years of production.
This red is a true field blend, the exact varietal makeup
remains a mystery; however, its composition is roughly 60%
Nebbiolo, 30% Barbera, with a bit of Vespolina, Uva Rara and a
few other 'unknown' varietals blended in. Whatever they do, it
works.
There's
plenty of bright savory berry notes (cherry, strawberry,
blackberry, bosen) with violet and rose petal hints. The middle
palate reveals nice mineral acidity along side darker fruit
notes (plum, black raspberry). The finish is delightful and
sincere. All in all this is a fairly outstanding and unique wine
from a once forgotten corner of Piedmont.
|
