A Few October Arrivals:
Pierre
Gerbais Champagne Les Grandes Côtes
(France, Champagne)
$110
The lastest
Champagne on the scene at Renegade:
Pure Pinot Noir Champagne from the southern
edge of the region, where the limestone is
Chablis's rather than Reims's. The Gerbais
family has farmed at Celles-sur-Ource for four
generations, and Aurelien Gerbais, in charge
since 2011, keeps the estate certified
sustainable under the Ampelos and HVE schemes
and has rebuilt the range entirely around
single parcels.
Les Grandes Cotes is a Blanc de Noirs from a
north-facing slope of Pinot Noir grown on a
geological patchwork of Portlandian and upper
and middle Kimmeridgian limestone. The cuvee
is built around a perpetual reserve, a solera
running back to 2011, then aged thirty-six
months and finished at 3 g/L, so Extra Brut.
Concentrated and savory rather than "pretty".
Peach, pear, beeswax, fresh-baked bread and
tangerine oil over a deeply mineral spine.
Grower Champagne with real depth and a real
story.
For Champagne lovers this is a Don't Miss!
|
|
2024
La Soufrandière Pouilly-Vinzelles Les Quarts
Cuvée Zen
(France, Burgundy, Mâconnais)
$40
If you've read
about the extreme pricing of Burgundy and
practically given up finding a great bottle
for under $50 we're here to say, Don't Give Up
Hope! We've discovered many new treasures
lately, this Chardonnay being one of the
current favorites at Renegade.
Cuvée Zen, 90%
from Les Quarts vineyard (old vines) plus two
smaller parcels is magical; a fresh,
expressive Chardonnay with citrus and pear,
white flowers, a subtly herbal–aniseed
aromatic edge, and a juicy, saline finish.
There's a little tropical edge in the
background and a finish that gains complexity
and length as the wine opens. This is sublime.
|
|
2024
Domaine Manciat-Poncet Mâcon-Charnay Les
Chênes
(France, Burgundy, Mâconnais)
$26
Speaking
of excellent values in Burgundy here we have a
lovely Chardonnay from the village of Charnay
in the Mâconnais.
Chardonnay
from 40 year old vines, hand harvested (rare
in the Mâconnais) and aged in stainless
steel, where a minimum amount of lees stiring
is done to perserve freshness.
Quick
notes: green apple and Bosc pear, white
flowers, green tea, citrus (some). White
peach, flinty (just a touch), crisp acidity
and noticeable minerality, finishing round and
long.
.
|
|
2023
Monteraponi Trebbiano Colli della Toscana
Centrale IGT
(Italy, Tuscany)
On Sale: $98
We
are including this one simply because we adore
their Chianti Classico and had to share the
tasting notes from Vinous; a glowing review:
"The 2023
Trebbiano is a captivating young white from
Monteraponi. Lemon confit, marzipan, dried
flowers, chamomile and exotic fruit overtones
flesh out over time. There's gorgeous textural
richness and depth to explore."
Another wine
advocate wrote, "A wine that has quickly risen
to become one of the most prestigious and
sought after white wines in Tuscany".
All we know is
it's every bit as good as Trebbiano from
Valentini and Emidio Pepe but from Tuscany.
|
|
2024
Laura Aschero Pigato Riviera Ligure di
Ponente
(Italy, Liguria)
$38
A
number of local winemakers were a bit put out
when we sold out of the previous vintage of
Laura Aschero's Pigato. But promises were
kept, and we just received a number of cases
of this gorgeous wine.
If
you're not familiar with Pigato it is
genetically Vermentino though some call it a
Ligurian clone of Vermentino. Either way in
the right hands the wines can be stunning.
Like this bottle.
We were a bit
rushed when tasting so our notes are short:
Wildflowers,
rosemary, thyme, peach, apricot, honey, acid,
saline, mineral finish.
Looking back
those descriptors do not nearly cover how
impressed we were with the wine. Hence the
need to sit down and slowly enjoy a bottle
with either a traditional Ligurian pesto or
fresh seafood pasta, or perhaps, both!
|
|
2023 Rene
Rostaing Le Vassal
(France, Coteaux du Languedoc)
$34
This is
Cote-Rotie legend Réne Rostaing’s Languedoc
project, blending 70% Syrah with 15% each of
Mourvedre and Grenache.
Grown in limestone soil with a very low
yield, this easy-drinking, richly satisfying
wine exhibits a gorgeous deep ruby color,
classy aromas of red and dark berry fruit,
there's a very expressive mid-palate, and a
full bodied finish. This is immediately
enjoyable from the first glass to the last.
|
|
2023
Domaine Taupenot-Merme Saint-Romain
(France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune,
Saint-Romain)
$65
Much like the
value-driven white Burgundies above finding
good value with red Burgundies you'll need to
look outside the obvious. In this case the
appellation Saint-Romain.
There's
gorgeous old world aromas of rose petal, wild
flowers, red berry spice, then on the palate
the first sensation is zippy minerality,
Burgundy spice, and subtle red berry fruit. As
the wine opens it relaxes, begins to fill out,
revealing more depth and nuances. This is not
a big powerhouse but an elegant, rustic, old
school rendition on Pinot Noir. Decant for an
hour, enjoy with mushroom risotto or
roast chicken with thyme and pan jus.
|
|
2023
Domaine Gaston et Pierre Ravaut Ladoix Les Carrières
(France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Ladoix)
$60
And
for our finale, from a fifth-generation family estate in
Ladoix-Serrigny run by brothers Vincent and Jérôme Ravaut, we
have a Pinot Noir from Les Carrieres vineyard which many
Burgundy experts believe should be rated as Premier Cru.
A wine
that's
the model of elegance. Great aromatic finesse...bewitching notes
of blackberry and violets, then a vibrant, finessed, silky
mid-palate that's both fresh and engaging. A harmonious finish is
a reward worth savoring. Try this one with these classic French
dishes: coq au vin and beef bourguignon. Outstanding!
|
