A Burgundian Wizard: Sylvain Cathiard
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Four
Generations
The domaine dates back to Sylvain's grandfather, who worked at DRC and Domaine Lamarche before buying his own parcels in the 1930s; father André expanded it (including the Malconsorts plot bordering La Tâche); Sylvain took over in the mid-1990s and pushed quality to Burgundy's top tier; and Sébastien, the fourth generation, has continued raising the bar since 2011, notably investing in a new cellar and modernizing without abandoning family tradition.
The domaine dates back to Sylvain's grandfather, who worked at DRC and Domaine Lamarche before buying his own parcels in the 1930s; father André expanded it (including the Malconsorts plot bordering La Tâche); Sylvain took over in the mid-1990s and pushed quality to Burgundy's top tier; and Sébastien, the fourth generation, has continued raising the bar since 2011, notably investing in a new cellar and modernizing without abandoning family tradition.
Sylvain Cathiard is one of the most sought-after names in Vosne-Romanée with good reason: their wines are simply brilliant.
Because
of the rarity of these wines (we received only a few bottles
of each) and while we've tasted their 2021 & 2022 trio of
wines and found them incredible, we are relying on other wine
professions for their impressions of the wines (see below).
Let's
take a look at these three that just arrived at Renegade.
All
three wines come from the Hautes-Côtes plateau west of the
main Côte de Nuits escarpment, at higher elevation (roughly
350m+) than the villages below, which brings cooler
temperatures, later ripening, and a more mineral, saline
signature. This trio was first introduced starting with
the 2021 vintage, so 2023 is only the third release.
2023
Sylvain Cathiard Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits $130
We begin with, what we call, the "base bottling", sourced from a blend of parcels on the Hautes-Côtes plateau.
We begin with, what we call, the "base bottling", sourced from a blend of parcels on the Hautes-Côtes plateau.
"A
playful nose of wild strawberry and raspberry with minérality;
medium-bodied with a saline entry, harmonious and structured
on the finish." -Neal Martin
Atlas
Fine Wines calls it "beautifully clean, fresh red fruit with
appealing notes of spice."
"...underpinned
by a gently balancing mineral touch and an overall sense of
harmony and "cool ripeness" typical of the Hautes-Côtes site
in a warm vintage." -Jasper Morris
Next:
2023
Sylvain Cathiard Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits
Aux Chaumes $130
A single-vineyard (lieu-dit) cuvée located above Nuits-St-Georges, on the border of the Vosne-Romanée appellation, geographically the closest of the three to Vosne, which shows in its slightly more refined character. Predominantly limestone with clay and stone in the vineyard.
Aux Chaumes $130
A single-vineyard (lieu-dit) cuvée located above Nuits-St-Georges, on the border of the Vosne-Romanée appellation, geographically the closest of the three to Vosne, which shows in its slightly more refined character. Predominantly limestone with clay and stone in the vineyard.
Neal
Martin describes "a subtle, floral bouquet with impressive
precision and poise,"
"...very
pure, energetic red fruit, medium body with gentle grip,
slightly darker fruit than the base wine, and more salinity on
the finish."
-Justerini & Brooks
-Justerini & Brooks
Allen
Meadows found it aromatically similar to the base wine but
with a violet top note, more volume, and vibrant, stony,
medium-weight flavors with greater depth and persistence.
And the third:
And the third:
2023 Sylvain Cathiard Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits
Les Dames Huguettes $130
A single-vineyard cuvée planted on the stoniest and most limestone-laden soils of the three.
"a bit more ripeness on the nose than Aux Chaumes — forward, vivacious red berry fruit mixed with hoisin, a well-balanced palate of dark berry fruit with a touch of cola, and fine weight and focus that may need a couple of years to fully integrate." -Vinous
In our
experience this cuvée tends to be the most structured,
mineral-driven and age-worthy of the three, often needing the
most patience.
But for those with a sense of urgency decant for 3-4 hours. -Renegade
But for those with a sense of urgency decant for 3-4 hours. -Renegade
For
those Burgundy collectors we offer a charming 3-Pack price:
$340
(reg 390)
Please reach out if interested.
