2023
Domaine Combe Queyzaire Aestivalis
(France, Vin de France)
$16
Mourvèdre 50%, Carignan 40%, Grenache 10%.
This is the winemaker -Denis Deschamps's-
homage to the Rhône's vins de soif of
yesteryear--they did exist, particularly
at bars during the lunch break, and
they're coming back--based on his
late-ripening varieties and cool sites.
One plot per varietal, all old vines with
a tamed alcohol level. Harvesting very
early in the morning to keep the grapes
cold, and beginning the fermentation in
concrete but finishing as if the wine were
a rosé, that is, imparting a gentle
structure to the wine. Racking into steel
for aging and bottling at the end of March
following the harvest.
This is classified as a Vin de France
because it doesn't have enough color to
qualify for AOC (meaning it cannot be
called Cotes du Rhone). The name
Aestivalis (es-tee-va-lease) is a play on
festivals and été, meaning Summer, i.e., a
wine for Summer to be served with a chill.
Another
bright, savory, minerally, with a hint of
earth wine for a steal. By the way, if you
haven't heard of Denis Deschamps know
this: he is that superstar winemaker that
no one has heard of outside of the
Southern Rhone.
