We
are very excited about this 'six-pack' of
new wines. From a stellar Greek white, to
a Grand Cru worthy Pinot Noir, and a
Nebbiolo that delights. There are
others...
Read,
Relax, Enjoy!
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2022
Domínio do Açor Dão Vila Romana Branco
(Portugal, Beiras, Dão)
$36
A historic farm with a spectacular
heritage of old vineyards was acquired by
a group of friends in 2021. Domínio do
Açor is located next to the medieval
village of Oliveira do Conde. “Domínio”
refers to the philosophy of producing
great terroir wines and “do Açor” evoking
the geography, facing the Serra do Açor.
With terroir master Pedro Parra and
oenology of the talented Luís Lopes, who
has worked at Comtes Lafon in Burgundy,
the style of wine is one of elegance,
freshness and granite minerality.
The
blend: 56% Encruzado, 44% Cerceal-White
and Malvasia-Fina.
The
wine: A whirlwind of aromas right out of
the gate, with orchard fruit, citrus,
Mediterranean herbs. There's energy on the
palate, with great structure, freshness
and minerality, with a long and
persistent, complex finish. Grill some
fish with this one. In a Brazilian mood?
Try this gem with Shrimp
Bobo.
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2022
Monemvasia Winery '300' White
(Greece, Peloponnisos, Laconia)
$28
Located on the southern tip of
Peloponnese, in Laconia, Monemvasia makes
a rip-roaring, mineral drenched coastal
white from the local Kydonitsa variety,
blended with everyone’s favorite
Assyrtiko. It’s a deliciously surprising
meld of ancient Greek history and modern
Greek innovation. There’s not much though,
so be sure to stock up so you have plenty
on hand when the weather warms up, you'll
be very glad you did!
Kydonitsa is the perfect example of this
hyper-local focus, as this obscure grape
is basically only found in Laconia; most
of the rest of Greece hasn’t heard of this
grape. Kydonitsa brings aromatic intensity
and bright, snappy orchard fruits while
Assyrtiko, the darling of Greek Island
varieties, adds structure and the classic
core of saline minerality.
The vineyards are planted on coastal hills
at about 300 meters above sea level, which
is half the reason for the cuvée name of
“300,” the other half is a cheeky
reference to the legend of 300 Spartans
who stayed behind to defend retreating
troops in an ancient battle with the
Persian Empire. It’s a classic hero story
of teamwork and grit, albeit a gruesome
one, but the inspiration is the idea that
“in unity there is strength.” In this
case, the unity is between the two
distinct grapes blending into something
that is greater than the sum of its parts.
Notes
of snappy green apple, quince, yellow
grapefruit, lemon peel, white blossoms,
meld with wild sage all wrapped around a
core of sea salt laden minerality. Though
clearly in the crisp, bright white wine
camp, the Kydonitsa adds just enough
texture and body to make this a versatile
pairing for anything from fresh shellfish
to roast chicken.
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2022
Domaine de Montille Bourgogne
(France,
Burgundy) $46
The Burghound labeled this one,
'Outstanding'. Here are his notes:
"An
exuberantly pinot-like nose of ripe red
berries and soft earth nuances gives way
to delicious and sleek if not especially
dense flavors that possess an unusually
refined mouthfeel before concluding in a
solidly long finish where only a hint of
rusticity slowly appears."
Neal
Martin from Vinous may have been a bit
snooty (or is it high praise) when he
labeled the wine, "maybe a bit 'serious'
for a Bourgogne Rouge".
Then
there's Jasper Morris (Inside Burgundy)
who cut to the chase: "Perfectly
balanced...clean and delicious...".
It
is one of Etienne Montille's best efforts
for this 'village' level wine.
Next week we'll sneek it into a blind
Premier Cru Burgundy tasting and see how
it does.
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2022
Domaine de Montille Volnay 1er Cru
Taillepieds
(France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune)
$230
We
are show casing this single vineyard Pinot
Noir simply because we actually received a
few bottles. It is a rarity. Also, of all
the vineyards in Volnay, Taillepieds may
be the closest to Grand Cru than any of
the others. Just an opinion. As for the
wine: currently it is wonderfully
discreet, precise, with an understated
elegance. Decant for a few hours and serve
with duck a l'orange.
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2022
Boniperti Colline Novaresi Carlin
(Italy, Piedmont, Northern Piedmont,
Colline Novaresi)
$32
If you love Nebbiolo but haven't (yet)
experienced the joy of Northern Piedmont
reds this is the bottle for you.
This medium bodied, everyday Nebbiolo is a
beauty. Rose-petals, red fruit, very
fresh, some mineral notes, succulent mid
palate with a great finish. If you drink
Pinot Noir much you should be drinking
this wine too. We had this with Ca'
Dario's bolognese; it was brilliant.
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Domaine
Verset A & E Syrah
(France, Vin de France) $32
Sixth generation vigneronne Emmanuelle Verset is one of only
two women at the helm of a Cornas domaine. The village she
calls home bears little resemblance to the Cornas of the
first half of the 20th century. By the late seventies, the
appellation had just fifty hectares of vines and even fewer
vignerons. Phylloxera and two World Wars had taken their
toll, but it was the dominance of the negotiants and their
demand for low prices that left vignerons with few options.
Rather than continuing the back breaking work of tending
vines on steep granite slopes for little compensation, most
Cornas vignerons went to cities in search of better paying
factory jobs.
Noël Verset, Emmanuelle’s great-uncle, was among the few
that stayed. He joined his father in 1931 at age 12 and
worked his family vineyards for more than seven decades. He
upheld the Cornas tradition of producing a single wine by
blending his now famed lieux-dits. This hefty arsenal of
pure, balanced, terroir transparent wines not only helped
save Cornas, it set the standard for the region and secured
Cornas’s place in the pantheon of France’s most exalted
terroirs and age worthy wines.
Emmanuelle
proudly continues the tradition. This is her 'entry level'
Syrah, picked early for freshness, spice, and verve. Grab a
bottle while awaiting her Cornas.
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