Renegade Wines

Renegade Wines Year 35
February has started off strong. We've had a comfortable amount of rain with more on the way, and here at Renegade we're starting to see a number of new wines arriving just in time for the upcoming Valentine's Day Weekend.
Here is a brief overview of our exciting newbies.
Read, Relax, Enjoy!
L. Aubry Fils Champagne Premier Cru Brut Rosé (France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru)
L. Aubry Fils Champagne Premier Cru Brut Rosé
(France, Champagne)
 $72

Philippe and Pierre Aubry run their family estate in the Premier Cru village of Jouy-lès-Reims, located in the western part of the Montagne de Reims. Somewhat unusual, the Aubry brothers grow all seven of the legal varieties permitted in Champagne as you can see by the make-up of this unique Rose: 

40% Chardonnay, 35% Pinot Noir (2% vin rouge), 20% Meunier, 5% Arbanne, Petit Meslier, Fromenteau and Pinot Blanc.
This Rose is a stand-out; a striking example of what can be achieved in Champagne with vision. Organically farmer, this bottle of bubbles is quite expressive. Creamy and ample, with terrific vibrancy. Rose petal, cranberry, hibiscus, dried flowers and orange peel all build into the beautifully energized and persistent finish. A sophisticated Rose ready to let loose and party.
Domaine de la Taille aux Loups Triple Zero Rosé (France, Loire Valley, Touraine)
Domaine de la Taille aux Loups Triple Zero Rosé
(France, Loire Valley, Touraine)
 $44

First a little direction: this Rose blend from the Loire is comprised of 95% Gamay and 5% Grolleau from 100+ year old vines. Triple Zero refers to Zero chaptalization, Zero liqueur de tirage, Zero dosage. And while this is a 'Pet Nat', it's one of the brightest, most dazzling Pet Nat around.
In the glass there's a wild blend of ginger spice, lean grapefruit and citrus notes, exotic florals leading to a mineral-laden explosion on the mid-palate. Tart orchard fruit, melon and peach round out this flavor storm with a burst of energetic overdrive on the finish. 
2023 Tenuta delle Terre Nere Etna Bianco Cuvée delle Vigne Niche Santo Spirito (Italy, Sicily, Etna DOC)
2023 Terre Nere Etna Bianco Santo Spirito
(Italy, Sicily, Etna DOC)
 $56

Unlike their Etna Bianco DOC, which is made up of 5 white grapes, this "Santo Spitito” is 100% Carricante. The freshness here is readily apparent; there's a gaeity to the wine that lends itself to a playful afternoon picnic with oysters and sunshine. The focused minerality arrives half way through your first glass along with apricot and nectarine notes. There's traces of Asian pear and more exotic omens hidden deep within its core waiting to unfurl in your second and third glass. The finish, like the beginning, is startling in its sophistication and depth. This one's worthy.
Abbazia di Novacella (Stiftskellerei Neustift) Kerner (Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Alto Adige, Valle Isarco / Eisacktaler
Abbazia di Novacella Kerner
(Italy, Alto Adige, Valle Isarco)
 $26

The Kerner varietal was created by crossing Trollinger (Schiava Grossa) and Riesling to produce a cold tolerant, mildew resistant grape that could survive the freezing Dolomite winters and the sometimes very humid Summers. After decades of successful harvests the grape was awarded DOC status in 1993 (was there a party)?
The abbey was founded in 1142 with wine production beginning shortly there after. That's nearly 900 vintages under the belt!
Citrus and passion fruit show first, followed by pear and pleasant countryside herbal notes, stone fruit, honeysuckle, and a lovely salinity appears near the finish. It's a wine to pair with roast chicken, mild vegetable curry, and soft cheeses (or as an appertif; all by itself).
populis Chardonnay Macerated Chardonnay (USA, California, North Coast, Mendocino County)
2023 populis Chardonnay Macerated Chardonnay
(Mendocino County)
 $25

This is a great example of orange wine. Why? Because skin contact has been done judiciously. There's a pleasing balance of texture and tannins that do not interrupt the charm of the wine. If you're curious about orange wines this is the place to begin.

2022 Domaine des Terres Dorées (Jean-Paul Brun) Beaujolais Cuvée l'Ancien Vieilles Vignes (France, Burgundy, Beaujolais)
2022 Domaine des Terres Dorées Cuvée l'Ancien Vieilles Vignes
(France, Burgundy, Beaujolais)
 $24

If we had a top five favorites from Beaujolais under $30 we would include Lapierre's Raisins Gaulois, Domaine de Colette's Beaujolais-Villages, and Jean-Claude Lapalu's old vines bottling from Brouilly. As good as these are Jean-Paul Brun's L'Ancien is a bit more savory, a hint more juicy, a wee more structured. Factor in the price and so far this year it's our #1 Gamay under $30.

2022 Domaine des Terres Dorées (Jean-Paul Brun) Côte de Brouilly (France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Côte de Brouilly)
2022 Domaine des Terres Dorées Côte de Brouilly
(France, Beaujolais)
 $30

Speaking of great values, here we have Jean-Paul's Gamay from Cote de Brouilly and his vineyard parcel half way up on this extinct volcano.
The soil is almost entirely stones of granite with a high iron content.
Ripe red currant and raspberry/strawberry fruit aromas with a touch of  violets, cherry, licorice and earth. A beautiful, fuller rendition, with black and red fruit on the palate and fresh citrusy acids that linger on the finish. A beautiful Beaujolais now and over the next few years. Highly recommended!

Paul Bara Champagne Grand Cru Grand Rosé (France, Champagne)
Domaine le Briseau Patapon Rouge
(France, Loire Valley, Coteaux du Loir)
 $32

The last few weeks we've been on the look out for a new wine made with Pineau d'Aunis, that rare grape from the Loire Valley.  We admit that it was the label that struck our senses first. But the minute the cork was pulled a wave of red and dark berry fruit knocked us silly. This was followed by gorgeous floral notes.
On the palate: lip-smacking blueberry, violets, white pepper, and a sublime mix of delicate fruit with earthy crunch. It's lightly fruited and nervy, but it has an underlying structure and texture that elevates it from something to chill and chug to something you can savor and contemplate. But don't hesitate to chill & gulp it if you can't help yourself. This is juicy goodness.  .

This Just In
2023 Weingut Willi Bründlmayer Grüner Veltliner Terrassen (Austria, Niederösterreich, Kamptal)
2022 Domaine de la Taille aux Loups Montlouis-sur-Loire
Clos de Mosny

(France, Loire Valley) $46

This is a last minute addition to the week(end) so while we have not tasted this vintage, the Vinous review sounds like this wine is every bit as great as the 2019 and 2020 vintage we had on our shelves. We're looking forward to this wine with Dim Sum at China Pavilion on Sunday. In the meantime here is the Vinous review, word for word:
"The 2022 Montlouis-sur-Loire Clos de Mosny Monopole is a clay-flint-based parcel, and you can see that in its focus and line. There's flinty, smoky, salty reduction going on here, but it's well-judged and lends an extra layer of complexity, as well as providing additional tension. Excellent precision defines the mid-palate, but there's still a generosity and softness that lends charm with structure. Long and classy, it’s amazing that such a warm vintage can provide such togetherness and balance." 94/100