February
has started off strong. We've had a
comfortable amount of rain with more on
the way, and here at Renegade we're
starting to see a number of new wines
arriving just in time for the upcoming
Valentine's Day Weekend.
Here
is a brief overview of our exciting
newbies.
Read,
Relax, Enjoy!
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L.
Aubry Fils Champagne Premier Cru Brut
Rosé
(France, Champagne)
$72
Philippe and Pierre Aubry run their family
estate in the Premier Cru village of
Jouy-lès-Reims, located in the western
part of the Montagne de Reims. Somewhat
unusual, the Aubry brothers grow all seven
of the legal varieties permitted in
Champagne as you can see by the make-up of
this unique Rose:
40% Chardonnay, 35% Pinot Noir (2% vin
rouge), 20% Meunier, 5% Arbanne, Petit
Meslier, Fromenteau and Pinot Blanc.
This
Rose is a stand-out; a striking example of
what can be achieved in Champagne with
vision. Organically farmer, this bottle of
bubbles is quite expressive. Creamy and
ample, with terrific vibrancy. Rose petal,
cranberry, hibiscus, dried flowers and
orange peel all build into the beautifully
energized and persistent finish. A
sophisticated Rose ready to let loose and
party.
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Domaine
de la Taille aux Loups Triple Zero Rosé
(France, Loire Valley, Touraine)
$44
First a little direction: this Rose blend
from the Loire is comprised of 95% Gamay
and 5% Grolleau from 100+ year old vines.
Triple Zero refers to Zero
chaptalization, Zero liqueur de tirage,
Zero dosage. And while this is a 'Pet
Nat', it's one of the brightest, most
dazzling Pet Nat around.
In the glass there's a wild blend of
ginger spice, lean grapefruit and citrus
notes, exotic florals leading to a
mineral-laden explosion on the mid-palate.
Tart orchard fruit, melon and peach round
out this flavor storm with a burst of
energetic overdrive on the finish.
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2023
Terre Nere Etna Bianco Santo Spirito
(Italy, Sicily, Etna DOC)
$56
Unlike their Etna Bianco DOC, which is
made up of 5 white grapes, this "Santo
Spitito” is 100% Carricante. The freshness
here is readily apparent; there's a gaeity
to the wine that lends itself to a playful
afternoon picnic with oysters and
sunshine. The focused minerality arrives
half way through your first glass along
with apricot and nectarine notes. There's
traces of Asian pear and more exotic omens
hidden deep within its core waiting to
unfurl in your second and third glass. The
finish, like the beginning, is startling
in its sophistication and depth. This
one's worthy.
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Abbazia
di Novacella Kerner
(Italy, Alto Adige, Valle Isarco)
$26
The Kerner varietal was created by
crossing Trollinger (Schiava Grossa) and
Riesling to produce a cold tolerant,
mildew resistant grape that could survive
the freezing Dolomite winters and the
sometimes very humid Summers. After
decades of successful harvests the grape
was awarded DOC status in 1993 (was there
a party)?
The
abbey was founded in 1142 with wine
production beginning shortly there after.
That's nearly 900 vintages under the belt!
Citrus and passion fruit show first,
followed by pear and pleasant countryside
herbal notes, stone fruit, honeysuckle,
and a lovely salinity appears near the
finish. It's a wine to pair with roast
chicken, mild vegetable curry, and soft
cheeses (or as an appertif; all by
itself).
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2023
populis Chardonnay Macerated Chardonnay
(Mendocino County)
$25
This is a great example of orange wine.
Why? Because skin contact has been done
judiciously. There's a pleasing balance of
texture and tannins that do not interrupt
the charm of the wine. If you're curious
about orange wines this is the place to
begin.
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2022
Domaine des Terres Dorées Cuvée l'Ancien
Vieilles Vignes
(France, Burgundy, Beaujolais)
$24
If we had a top five favorites from
Beaujolais under $30 we would include
Lapierre's Raisins Gaulois, Domaine de
Colette's Beaujolais-Villages, and
Jean-Claude Lapalu's old vines bottling
from Brouilly. As good as these are Jean-Paul
Brun's L'Ancien is a bit more
savory, a hint more juicy, a wee more
structured. Factor in the price and so far
this year it's our #1 Gamay under $30.
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2022
Domaine des Terres Dorées Côte de
Brouilly
(France, Beaujolais)
$30
Speaking of great values, here we have
Jean-Paul's Gamay from Cote de Brouilly
and his vineyard parcel half way up on
this extinct volcano. The soil
is almost entirely stones of granite with
a high iron content.
Ripe red currant and raspberry/strawberry
fruit aromas with a touch of
violets, cherry, licorice and earth. A
beautiful, fuller rendition, with black
and red fruit on the palate and fresh
citrusy acids that linger on the finish. A
beautiful Beaujolais now and over the next
few years. Highly recommended!
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Domaine
le Briseau Patapon Rouge
(France, Loire Valley, Coteaux du Loir)
$32
The last few weeks we've been on the look
out for a new wine made with Pineau
d'Aunis, that rare grape from the Loire
Valley. We admit that it was the
label that struck our senses first. But
the minute the cork was pulled a wave of
red and dark berry fruit knocked us silly.
This was followed by gorgeous floral
notes.
On
the palate: lip-smacking blueberry,
violets, white pepper, and a sublime mix
of delicate fruit with earthy crunch. It's
lightly fruited and nervy, but it has an
underlying structure and texture that
elevates it from something to chill and
chug to something you can savor and
contemplate. But don't hesitate to chill
& gulp it if you can't help yourself.
This is juicy goodness. .
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2022
Domaine de la Taille aux Loups Montlouis-sur-Loire
Clos de Mosny
(France, Loire Valley) $46
This is a last minute addition to the week(end) so while we
have not tasted this vintage, the Vinous review sounds like
this wine is every bit as great as the 2019 and 2020 vintage
we had on our shelves. We're looking forward to this wine
with Dim Sum at China Pavilion on Sunday. In the meantime
here is the Vinous review, word for word:
"The
2022 Montlouis-sur-Loire Clos de Mosny Monopole is a
clay-flint-based parcel, and you can see that in its focus
and line. There's flinty, smoky, salty reduction going on
here, but it's well-judged and lends an extra layer of
complexity, as well as providing additional tension.
Excellent precision defines the mid-palate, but there's
still a generosity and softness that lends charm with
structure. Long and classy, it’s amazing that such a warm
vintage can provide such togetherness and balance." 94/100
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