Let's
get right to it: seven exciting wines to explore this early
April from Champagne to Chateauneuf.
Read,
Relax, Enjoy!
Nicolas
Maillart Champagne Premier Cru Extra
Brut Platine
$68
Once upon a time (last week) there was a
Champagne seminar with Nicolas Maillart at
NaNa Thai in Buellton. We would have gone
for the food alone. What actually peaked
our curiosity though, was a new Champagne
import from Kermit Lynch and Nicolas was
going to be there in person.
The
Cliff notes read like this:
What a great guy, charismatic, informative
speaker, just the right amount of details,
and then there were the Champagnes. The
entire line-up was stellar but for today's
(newsletter) purposes we are focusing on
his 'Platine' Cuvee.
Based
on the 2019 vintage and a blend of Pinot
Noir (60%), Chardonnay (30%), and Pinot
Meunier (10%), the Champagne has
impeckable purity, clean and fresh, lively
energy, a savory factor of 9.5, and on the
'Yum' scale (a professional wine term to
be sure), it hit close to 10.
Grab a few bottles while we have it in
stock. It won't last for long...
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100% Pinot
Meunier
Christophe
Mignon Champagne ADN de Meunier Brut
Nature
$65
There's been quite the demand for 100%
Pinot Meunier Champagne lately. Perhaps
the grape is having its moment in the
spotight. Part of the PM movement is that
growers such as Chirstophe Mignon are
treating the grape with the respect it
deserves; this is his jam. We mean it.
When looking up his viticultural practices
the importer lists:
"A blend of biodynamics, phytotherapy,
homeopathy and geobiology."
Therein
lies a thesis waiting to be written.
As for the wine itself, it's powerful and
deep. The no dosage style yields a stark,
minimalist Champagne, but all the elements
are so well-balanced. Dried pear, spice,
chamomile and ginger linger. This is such
an elegant and precise Champagne; a real
stunner.
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A Pair of
Aces:
2023
Castello di Verduno Verduno Pelaverga
Basadone
(Italy, Piedmont, Alba)
$36
2023
Castello di Verduno Langhe Nebbiolo
(Italy, Piedmont, Langhe DOC)
$36
We've never been steered wrong with
this winery and these two wines from their
2023 vintage are aces. We begin with the
relatively obscure grape Pelaverga, a
varietal native to Piedmont and valued for
its exotic spice, ethereal complexity, and
freshness. This one is bright, fresh and
loaded with raspberry, white pepper and
floral energy.
And did we mention, the Burlotto family
estate has been making wine here since
1500!
Then
there's this beautiful Nebbiolo, with all
the fruit coming from the Barbaresco
vineyards Faset and Rabajà. If you want a
preview of Barbaresco without spending $70
or more, or if you just love good, red,
lip-smacking wine, try this Nebbiolo. Lamb
chops? Roast chicken? Hungry yet?
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One More
Nebbiolo:
2022
Produttori del Barbaresco Langhe
Nebbiolo
(Italy, Piedmont, Langhe DOC)
$32
We have a beautiful contrast from the
Nebbiolo above. This one is plumper,
texturally denser but with a bright
lifting acidity. There's a captivating
bouquet of red fruit, rose petal, and
spice and a lingering finish that will
leave you wanting more. If you're having
roast chicken with the Nebbiolo above,
serve this one with the rib-eye course.
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2021
Istine Chianti Classico Riserva Levigne
(Italy, Tuscany, Chianti Classico DOCG)
$65
This wine is a late arriver for our
newsletter so we have not yet experienced
it's wonder. But
Antonio Galloni has and is not shy about
singing its praises:
"Bright,
punchy and vibrant, the 2021 is fabulous.
Bright acids lift a core of red/purplish
fruit, while floral and spice notes appear
later and add freshness. This is the first
vintage with a dollop of whole clusters
(10%), an approach that works beautifully
here. I also find the oak better
integrated than in the past. I especially
admire the wine's translucent energy."
This wine is rated very high on his
tasting scale.
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2023
Kermit Lynch Selections Côtes du Rhône
(France, Southern Rhône)
$16
They
threw the kitchen sink into this bottle,
58% Grenache, 34% Syrah, 3% Mourvèdre, 3%
Carignan, 1% Marselan, 1% Cinsault,
adjusted the price tag to bargain, then
bottled a daily drinking gem.
Delightfully
juicy, a wine that can be sipped casually
with a slight chill as an apéritif or on
movie night, but has enough weight to
stand up to burgers, pizza, grilled meats,
or anything else you might throw its way.
Easy on the pocketbook, delightful on the
palate.
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2022
Domaine de la Solitude
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
(France, Southern Rhône)
$55
The winery “Domaine de la Solitude”
belongs to one of the oldest families in
Châteauneuf-du-Pape, whose roots go back
to the 15th century. In the 18th century
great-great-(great?) grandson Paul Martin
was the first (or one of) person (people)
to bottle their own wine and sell in
markets as far away as England.
The
estate is still a family affair and is now
run by 8th generation Florent
Lancon. The wine pictured above,
produced since the 17th century, is a
blend of the three major varietals:
Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre, but also
of all the other (13 in total) varietals
authorised by the Châteauneuf-du-Pape AOC
in 1936. You may call this a historic
cuvee if you will.
This
one is bold with loads of concentration;
full-bodied, seductive and spicy with
flavor and aroma reminiscent of black
cherry, baked raspberry, garrigue, olive
tapenade, lavender and baking spice.
There's tons going on here but only after
a few hours in a decanter.
This
one isn't shy, but why should it?
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