From
Playful to Serious: Wines to Consider
2023
Ermes Pavese Blanc de Morgex et de la
Salle
(Italy, Valle d'Aosta)
$40
We first came across this white wine from
a recommendation; the exact words were,
"buy a case...I'll split it with you." Ten
vintages later and we've never been
disappointed.
The wine comes from the highest vineyard
site in Europe and is planted with the
Prié Blanc grape variety.
2023 is a vibrant vintage for this wine;
lots of energy, freshness, with white
fruit, citrus, and floral notes. A herbal
component meanders in (thyme? mint?) that
leads to beautiful orchard notes (subtle)
before a long and drawn out finish. As
playful as the label is, this is a serious
wine. This pairs well with spaghetti and
clams, scallop carpaccio, lighter cheeses.
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2022 Cantina Terlan Pinot Bianco
Terlano Vorberg
(Italy, Alto Adige)
$52
It seems that Alsace receives all the
attention when it comes to Pinot Blanc
(think Domaine Weinbach) but all that is
changing. After Terlano was named Italy's
best white wine producer in 2023, we
pre-ordered a number of their white wines;
the new vintages are slowly arriving, this
one being the first.
The vineyard, Vorberg (1500-2200 feet
elevation), with the Dolomites in the
background, produces stunning Pinot Bianco
with immediate attraction and with the
ability to age. There's a intense aromatic
draw to the wine: honeydew melon, white
peach, pear and Golden Delicious apple,
together with the wisp of quince, camomile
and perhaps under-ripe pineapple. A strong
vein of mineral-ladden acidity runs
through segway-ing into a creamy,
lingering, spiced finish. This wine is a
triumph.
As for food pairings, the winery website
is quite thorough:
Simple pairings
"Ideal in combination with a spicy fish
soup, mussels in a pepper sauce and
spaghetti allo scoglio as well as mussels
au gratin, grilled ink fish and poached
char; also one of the few good
combinations with artichokes alla romana;
excellent with mature Pecorino, a mature
Parmesan and mostarda, and Tête de Moine".
(wait...there's more):
Detailed Pairings
Spiced lobster and grilled white Terlano
asparagus with pancetta sauce and roasted
pistachio nuts - Giancarlo Perbellini
(Ristorante Perbellini)
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Favorite
Aligote in Lettie Teague's
Wall
Street Journal Article:
2022
Domaine de Villaine Aligoté Bouzeron
(France, Burgundy, Côte Chalonnaise,
Bouzeron)
$55
In 1971, Aubert de Villaine, co-owner of
the prestigious Domaine de la
Romanée-Conti (DRC), established Domaine
A. & P. de Villaine in Bouzeron, a
small village in the Côte Chalonnaise
region of Burgundy. At the time of its
founding, Bouzeron was relatively unknown
and had no appellation status. De Villaine
chose Bouzeron as a place where he could
focus on terroir and the potential of the
Aligoté grape.
Let's
call him a visionary. Today (in certain
circles) Aligote is highly praised with
this wine perhaps being the benchmark of
the varietal.
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2022
Roland Lavantureux Chablis Vieilles
Vignes
(France, Burgundy, Chablis)
$42
Kermit Lynch imports top notch Chablis,
this one being our present favorite.
65+ year old vines, this wine is
pristinely focused with crisp,
mineral-driven salinity wrapped in notes
of Granny Smith apples, cool pear, a light
spice emerges on the back palate, then a
long and layered finish that reflects the
Kimmeridgian limestone terroir.
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2023
Domaine de la Denante Mâcon-Verzé
(France, Burgundy)
$24
Spoiler alert: this may be
Burgundy's best bargain.
We
finally found a great Chardonnay from
Burgundy for that Tuesday night book club
kind of evening. This wine has
surprisingly deep fruit intensity;
pear, citrus and firm peach. with
impressively sleek texture and weight but
with a finish that's bright and energetic.
On
second thought this wine is worthy of a
Friday Date Night!
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2022
Clos La Coutale Cahors
(France, Southwest France, Cahors)
$18.50
Cahors seems to be that often overlooked
wine region in the Southwest of France but
it's not short on history. Winemaking has
been traced back to 50BC when the Romans
planted vines in the area.
In
the 12th century, wines from here were
served at the wedding of Eleanor of
Aquitaine and Henri Plantagenet, future
king of England.
The
wines from Cahors became a favorite
of Tsar Peter the Great in the 13th
century.
And more recently Malbec made its way to
Argentina (1853) to ignite a wine
revolution there (albeit slowly). For
Cahors is the ancestral home to the dark
and brooding grape, Malbec.
That
being said, today we have one of our
favorite renditions of the
grape. This deep garnet stunner,
predominantly Malbec with a touch of
Merlot, has both elegance and rusticity,
juicy ripe fruit and earthy aromas, and
bears a velvety finish that will only
soften with time. Try a bottle today while
your grill heats up and the week
unfolds.
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2021
Gulfi Sicilia Nerojbleo
(Italy, Sicily)
$32
Made from 100% organic Nero d'Avola grapes grown at
420-450m above sea level in Chiaramonte Gulfi. The wine
undergoes temperature-controlled fermentation, extended
maceration on skins, and aging in barrels for 12 months.
There's intense aromas of dark cherries, blackberries,
savory herbs and spices, not to mention floral notes
(violets).
Full-bodied
and smooth with a harmonious structure. There's pleasant
freshness, silky tannins, and notes of plum, candied
cherry, and subtle oak. Bold elegance with a vibrant
finish.
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