For years all we've
been tasting from Rioja is Tempranillo, with,
occasionally, a percentage or two of Garnacha and
Graciano thrown into the mix. This week world's
collided when we were introduced to the Maturana
grape, white and red. These were varietals on the
verge of extinction, given up as lost, before Ijalba
Winery discovered a forgotten, tiny vineyard with
vines in the early 1970s.
Maturana Blanca
is the oldest Rioja variety, mentioned as early as
1622, while Maturana Tinta's DNA analysis
seems to link it to the Castets variety, which has
practically disappeared in France, its country of
origin. Both varietals can produce exceptional wines
as is the case here. We were thrilled to receive a
small amount of both yesterday.
2019 Viña
Ijalba Rioja Blanco Reserva $42
Bright pale golden hue in the glass greets you like a
soft morning sunrise. Fresh exotic citrus, perhaps a
hint of lemongrass, peach and mango emerge, then a
streak of brilliant mineral-ladden acidity, before a
crescendo-ing finish. This may be brilliant paired
with Spicy
Grilled Oysters with Asian Pepper Relish. Of
course seafood sopas would work nicely too.
2021 Viña Ijalba
Maturana Rioja Tinta $42
Do not let the nearly impenetrable dark cherry color
of the wine deceive. This is a very understated
elegant wine with some tomfoolery about. First
impressions might suggest a rich, over the top wine,
but the first swirl and taste will win you over.
This is a wine that is beautifully balanced with red
and dark brambly fruit, black pepper spice, subtle
tannins with gorgeous structure and length. Chalky
tannins towards the finish beg for classic Rioja
dishes such as:
Chuletas de cordero al sarmiento – Grilled lamb chops,
Huevos a la riojana – La Rioja-style eggs, or
Fritada riojana – Fried vegetables in tomato sauce.
So intrigued we are
with both wines that these are certainly early
contenders for our Top 21 Wines of 2024!
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