In April 1855, the Bordeaux Chamber of Commerce was asked to send the region's
best wines to Paris for the Exposition Universelle. With no time to taste, the
Chamber turned to the Syndicat des Courtiers — the brokers who had been pricing
Bordeaux for generations — and asked for a ranking. Two weeks later the brokers
handed back a list of five red growths and two sweet white tiers, ordered not
by tasting notes but by the prices each estate had been fetching for decades.
The brokers themselves urged caution: "you know as well as we do," they wrote,
"that this classification is a delicate task and bound to raise questions." It
was, they insisted, "not an official ranking, but only a sketch drawn from the
very best sources." The Chamber sent it to Paris anyway — and the sketch
became permanent.
The list named 58 châteaux of the Médoc, one of Graves (Haut-Brion, too famous
to leave out), and 21 estates of Sauternes & Barsac. Reds were sorted into
five tiers — Premier through Cinquième Cru — by long-running market price; the
sweets into three, with d'Yquem given a category to itself: Premier Cru
Supérieur.
What followed is its own quiet drama. Estates split inheritance into pieces
(the Léoville parish became three; Pichon Longueville became two), some
disappeared (Dubignon absorbed by Malescot; Pexoto folded into Rabaud-Promis),
and one — Cantemerle — was added by clerical correction within weeks. Only
once, in 1973, was an estate moved between tiers.