In April 1855, the Bordeaux Chamber of Commerce was asked to
send the region's best wines to Paris for the Exposition
Universelle. With no time to taste, the Chamber turned to the
Syndicat des Courtiers — the brokers who had been pricing
Bordeaux for generations — and asked for a ranking. Two weeks
later the brokers handed back a list of five red growths and two
sweet white tiers, ordered not by tasting notes but by the
prices each estate had been fetching for decades.
The brokers themselves urged caution: "you know as well as we
do," they wrote, "that this classification is a delicate task
and bound to raise questions." It was, they insisted, "not an
official ranking, but only a sketch drawn from the very best
sources." The Chamber sent it to Paris anyway — and the sketch
became permanent.
The list named 58 châteaux of the Médoc, one of Graves
(Haut-Brion, too famous to leave out), and 21 estates of
Sauternes & Barsac. Reds were sorted into five tiers —
Premier through Cinquième Cru — by long-running market price;
the sweets into three, with d'Yquem given a category to itself:
Premier Cru Supérieur.
What followed is its own quiet drama. Estates split
inheritance into pieces (the Léoville parish became three;
Pichon Longueville became two), some disappeared (Dubignon
absorbed by Malescot; Pexoto folded into Rabaud-Promis), and one
— Cantemerle — was added by clerical correction within weeks.
Only once, in 1973, was an estate moved between tiers.